Some days are just made for riding; today was one of those days.

On a clear day with incredible blue skies, I took a few hours to wander the countryside on my BMW R 1150 GS. My primary goal was to document a mileage mark -- hitting 170,000 miles on the odometer. Four miles from my house, I stopped to record the moment (right).
I've never ridden one motorcycle that many miles before. In fact, the most I've ever put on one bike was about 67,000 on a K 75 RT years ago, so every day is a new record for me. My eventual goal is to eclipse my vehicle record, 187K and change on a 1991 VW GTI, then head for 200K.
With that duty out of the way, I headed west to spend a couple of hours in the saddle. Riding through the town of Orange, I decided to go ahead and cast my vote for the November elections. Early voting started in Virginia last week, and I may be out of the area on election day, so I dropped in at the registrar's office and recorded my vote.

From Orange, I continued southwest on Virginia Rt. 20, a beautiful route
through the Virginia Piedmont, and made a brief stop to note the location of The
Wreck at the Fat Nancy, a state landmark.
The Fat Nancy was a railroad trestle spanning the area shown at right. Fat Nancy was a name given to an African-American woman who lived nearby and kept watch for problems at the trestle site. As the
Piedmont Airline, Virginia Midland Railroad's Train 52, crossed the 44-foot-high, 487-foot-long trestle on July 12, 1888, the bridge collapsed, killing nine and injuring another two dozen passengers. Among the survivors was former Confederate Lt. General James Longstreet.
A little farther south on Rt. 20 lies Montpelier, the home of Virginia native and American President James Madison. The road is called the Constitution Route in honor of Madison's key role in creating the document that governs our nation.

Montpelier is also the site of an original freedman's cabin, a home built and lived in by former slaves of the Montpelier plantation.
George Gilmore built the cabin in 1873 from remains of a Confederate camp nearby. His story is an inspiring one, and you can read the details
here.
Also in the area is
Montpelier Station, a railroad depot and post office that has been restored as a fully-functioning post office and museum on the days of segregation.

The exterior of the building is beautifully preserved, and the post office occupies the far end of the building as seen in this picture.
The near end includes separate "white" and "colored" entrances and waiting rooms, as was the norm before the end of racial segregation in the 1960s.
Inside the waiting rooms are exhibits explaining the sordid past of our American apartheid. For those not alive during that time, it must be a real eye-opener.

I remember the department store we frequented when I was a child in Alexandria, Virginia, having separate drinking fountains, but I don't recall seeing the level of apartheid preserved here, other than on TV news.
Though I lived in the South, I was still sheltered from the worst of life as a black American.

Across the highway is another nicely preserved building, this one an
Esso gas station. For those too young to remember, Esso was the previous name of Exxon, and was created by using the initials of the original company, Standard Oil -- S.O. becomes Esso. If you're riding in the area, you almost
have to stop for a photo.

After roaming the countryside for a bit, I found my way to Madison, Virginia, named for -- of course -- the former president.
One of the attractions of that small town is the
Pig 'n' Steak restaurant, a well-known purveyor of BBQ and other tasty meats.
Today, I chose a pork BBQ platter with macaroni salad and cole slaw, accompanied by the only beverage allowed to be consumed with BBQ in Virginia -- sweet tea. I'm joking, but it almost
should be the law; it's certainly the overwhelming practice.

Combine that meal with a good book (currently
Means of Ascent, the second volume in Robert Caro's biographical series on Lyndon Johnson), and you have a recipe for a nice, relaxing lunch in a cozy setting. Just be careful about the sauces on the table. A couple of them are pretty hot!
After lunch, I headed out on Rt. 231, one of the finest country roads anywhere. Known locally as the Old Blue Ridge Turnpike, it's a Virginia Scenic Byway and well worth a trip just to experience it.

After spending Sunday doing yard work, it was great to spend some time in the saddle on a perfect fall afternoon. The crisp air and scattered leaves in the roadway are proof the season is changing, and we're entering prime time for real motorcyclists. Maybe that's why I'm smiling so much tonight...